The Majella National Park forms a constant backdrop to our wraparound views.
And with the first snows of Autumn forecast for the highest of the mountain peaks this weekend, it seemed a good idea to take advantage of one of the last truly glorious days of Summer and take a long drive to enjoy the Park’s magnificent scenery.
There’s only one road running north-south through the Majella, from Scafa down to Pescocostanzo via Caramanico Terme, Passo San Leonardo and Pacentro.
It’s a route studded with gems.
Just north of Caramanico is a short and well-signposted detour to the 12th century church of San Tommaso, named after St Thomas a’ Becket.
Above the main door is a wonderful frieze depicting Christ and the Twelve Apostles. Twelve rather grumpy-looking Apostles it has to be said. Astonishing proof that the basics of caricature – albeit respectful – were apparent 800 years ago.
Contrast these with a handful of sumptuous and much more traditional medieval wall-paintings inside the church.
Who says Tuscany has all Italy’s art treasures ?
Head further south. The spa town of Caramanico Terme, where you can bathe in the waters, is a good place to stop for lunch.
Plenty of choice. We followed signs leading out of town to the Locanda del Barone. An act of faith, as there’s no way of knowing how far away it is, or whether it’ll be open when you arrive.
A 15-minute drive later, we were rewarded with a delightful setting; perhaps the best antipasti we’ve yet eaten in Abruzzo; a hugely generous bowl of home-made chitarra pasta in a rich tomato sauce studded with little nuggets of sausage; a good house Montepulciano d’Abruzzo served refreshingly chilled; and a bill under €40. Very much recommended.
After lunch, a gentle amble south, passing through Sant’Eufemia a Majella, with the road gently climbing up to Passo San Leonardo at 1285m/4216ft.
It’s a road that fools you, winding through alpine meadows against a spectacularly mountainous backdrop, and giving you no real indication of altitude until your ears start popping.
There’s a bar/cafe at Passo San Leonardo should you feel you need to reward your ascent.
It’s then literally downhill all the way until Pacentro, unspoiled and walkable, and famed for the iconic ‘twin towers’ of Cantelmo Castle, begun in the 9th century.
Between Caramanico and Pacentro – about 20 miles (32km) – we met four cars. Nice to have the place pretty much to yourself and dawdle along at your own pace.
After Pacentro, you can make a detour west to Sulmona, or just carry on down through the Majella to Pescocostanzo. A favourite village of ours with a couple of excellent restaurants and the rather smart American Bar, which has an incredible selection of single malt whiskies.
Once the snows set in, the road from Scafa to Pescocostanzo is efficiently and regularly snow-ploughed. But in winter, it’s mandatory (and sensible anyway) to carry a set of snow-chains. Just in case…
We’ve yet to do the drive in winter. Should be equally spectacular and scenic.
But a drive on a matchless early September afternoon will be a tough act to follow.